That's perfect, thanks Ployd.

Ployd
Can I ask a question - When throwing a hlg - I throw right climb - left glide.  By the look of the pics, yours is set up for right turns which would indicate to me that you are left handed and going left - right or you have a glider here that you are throwing right and gliding right. If the latter, how are you controlling it to stop it being a worm killer and spin in?  Is the right inner panel larger than the left to generate more lift and stop this?  If already covered this sunject, I will skulk back and make sure I read the thread more thoroughly? Apologies in advance.
Kev

Hi Kev

Like Mark Benn's and PeterT, I am right handed which means I'm not as smart as a southpaw but in essence you twirl the model into a climbing  left turn with your right arm and a bit of right rudder plus TIP WEIGHT on the right hand wing tip rolls it into a right glide and as PeeTee said " it's the opposite to a normal right handed javelin launch".

I just remembered, I do not use any tail tilt all done with the rudder.

Ployd

Fellow Twirly Hurlers
In the Discus Dancer topic it was suggested that the fin could be overpowering the model. This got me thinking in relation to the Morris Dancer as I have suspected that the tail surfaces were too large for the model (based on the Spencer Willis “Big-un”) and wondered if reducing the sizes would make the MD more responsive.

Under normal circumstances you make one change at a time, test and then review, not me! I went the whole hog and fitted a new smaller span stab and fin then went down to the local park to try it out.

The first observation was that with no rudder offset the model went dead straight so I bent in about 1mm and Javelin launched the model and this time I got a wide right hand circle with no stall. Time to twirl.

The weather conditions were a bit thermally so any launch would be inconclusive as far as altitude gained was concerned if I connected with one and that was the case, it was spectacular! However, the transition resulted in a stall that took several circles to dampen out with a corresponding loss of altitude so rather than add more rudder I have add more nose weight which I will try then remove and add more tip weight to see which is the better method of eliminating the stall.
I do not want to add any more rudder deflection as this will result in a spiral dive once it centres.

Below are the new stab and fin/rudder shapes which were drawn full-size but shrunk to fit the image size limits. A scale rule is provided below so that enlargement to the proper size can be made.

Ployd

Absolutely fantastic!...Hey Ployd...Where is the CG located on your dancer?-Turner

Hi All

We have reached a important milestone in that this topic has just scored its maiden test century (in short, doing a bit better than some "English tourists" in OZ) and that I can now announce that full-size plans for the Morris Dancer ver 2.1 are available at USD15.00 airmailed to the 'states.

For England and Europe, plans are to be purchased through Mike Woodhouse Free Flight Supplies.

As you can see from the photo they are fairly comprehensive and will be supplimented by additional construction notes that cover some features that could not be put on the plan (most of it has been published already).

If you are interested I can be contacted through this forum or via my website (preferred).

The topic is now closed so please don't post any further comments. Thanks for looking.

Ployd